Katsuo Kezuri-Ki (Bonito Shaver)
Monday, November 12th, 2007Not exactly an antique yet but quickly fading from memories is the formerly ubiquitous kitchen tool, the Katsuo Kezuri-Ki, the humble bonito shaver.

Primarily used in the preparation of dashi (fish soup stock), bonito has been used in this form since the 15Th century when it was found that it had the ability to preserve well. The way this was done was by simmering the fish first, then smoking it repeatedly. After that it was placed outdoors in the sun on racks to dry further and have the tar from the smoking process removed. Then it was stored in a controlled room where natural mold could form, further drying and enhancing the flavor while increasing its nutritional value. Scrape the mold and dry it in the sun and repeat again and again. At this point these chunks of fish have transformed into rock hard blocks called hon-bushi that will last indefinitely if stored correctly. I have an older friend in San Francisco that still has his grandmother’s kezuri-ki with a still usable hunk of bonito in the drawer; it has got to be around a hundred years old. But, alas, with the advent of cellophane wrapped katsuobushi (the shavings), who needs the old inconvenient shaver? I mean, you actually have to use physical labor to create one of your ingredients for dinner (who am I kidding, your just going to use a dashi-no-moto packet and skip the katsuobushi and kombu step anyway, I’ve been guilty of it).
The reason I’m interested in this bonito shaver is twofold, since it sort of combines two of my loves; cooking (I cook in a Japanese Restaurant) and woodworking. How does it do this? The shaver is actually an inverted form of a kanna (Japanese woodworking plane) with the dai (wood plane body) mounted upside down in a box above a drawer to collect the shavings as can be seen in exploded form to the left. This example is purportedly from the 1950′s and is unused, with a stamp marking it from Ninben in the Nihonbashi area of Tokyo (you may have heard of the slightly famous bridge from which the area gets it’s name). Before I sold my planes so I could move to Hawaii, I always wanted to try shaving some katsuo on them, the only problem, I couldn’t find any hunks of hon-bushi, even in SF’s Japantown. Now that I’m halfway across the Pacific I probably could get my hands on a chunk, but then I’d need to buy a plane or one of these kezuri-ki, but hey, that’s not such a bad idea. You should get one too.




